To continue the tour of our neck of the Philadelphia woods, there are two restaurants on the 1600 block of South Street that have been the perfect fodder for our laziness when we can’t drag ourselves too far for a meal, yet can’t bring ourselves to cook. Both are BYO (this is Philly, people). The first, Apamate, has been around the entire year we’ve been in this neighborhood. The second, Novita Bistro, is a relatively new addition. Although I’m pleased that Novita has opened (and that someone put a fence in front of the empty lot between the two restaurants), it hasn’t measured up to its neighbor. So, a head-to-head analysis:
Novita Bistro
1608 South Street, 215-545-4665.
Just about every review of this restaurant has talked about the Galletto al Mattone, a boneless Cornish hen, butterflied and pan-roasted, and served with escarole and white beans. There’s no doubt it’s good. The real problem is nothing else on Novita’s menu has quite measured up. We’ve had the starter of shrimp and white beans (no better than I make at home), a salad (nothing special), and the scallops sauteed with balsamic vinegar (the tastiest of the bunch but visually unappealing due to the brown hue and squashed appearance). Further, the pastas are the weak point. We’ve had the vongole, the spaghetti with crabmeat, and the gnocchi. All were mediocre. Due to a serious tagine overload during a trip to Morocco a few years back, neither of us has been compelled to try this rotating special, so I suppose that could be the hidden gem.
In my opinion, the chef here is trying to be too many things at once. There’s obviously a base of technique and simple flavors, but the restaurant seems confused. Is it Italian (see the pasta dishes) or continental (see the starters) or moroccan-influenced (see the daily tagine special and little tagines used to hold spices in which to dip your bread)? My advice, as an observer with a real interest in a restaurant in this space: lose the Italian influence, and focus on fresh, modern French-Moroccan tastes. I’ll go back during the winter for the galletto, but I hope a spring menu brings change.
1620 South Street, 215-790-1620
Apamate is one of our neighborhood favorites. It’s a bit unrefined in decor and service (friendly, but often delayed), but so convenient and the food is truly good. It is a tapas restaurant by way of a female Venezuelan chef, which strikes me as cool for not entirely clear reasons. (Okay, technically the restaurant serves pintxos not tapas, but I will admit that the difference between the two eludes me no matter how many times I read an explanation on a menu). They’ll turn your wine into sangria or mimosas for brunch or Kalimotxo (red wine and coke – it’s a Basque thing), so that’s plus one from the start. And they have a little, urban-chic back patio (said with tongue partially in cheek, note early comment re empty lot) for warm evenings – so plus two to start.
The menu is varied enough to entertain us on repeated visits. For dinner, our favorites are the Caramelos de Morcilla – sausage candies (what’s not to love?), Carne con Patatas al Cabrales (ribeye, potato, blue cheese, check), and the stuffed calamari. Plus they have a killer charcuterie platter. (Definitely order whatever “special” meats they may have). The key is to remember not to stuff yourselves with so many little savory treats that you don’t have room for the churros filled with dulce de leche. Ridiculous.
To throw the whole thing over the top, they will do takeout for most of their items and they serve a killer brunch late into the afternoon on the weekends. It’s true we got a little worn down by this menu after frequenting the place a bit too much (the menu shifts a bit seasonally, but mostly stays the same), but it’s still a great place to have 3 minutes from our front door.
My new favorite gem in the ‘hood is Cafe l’Aube at 1512 South Street. It’s definitely working its way through growing pains, but I’m a fan. To start, it’s a bright and warm space with French posters on the wall, Paris Match on the counter, and wireless internet in the air. If I were a grad student, I would live here. Walk to the counter to order and you will encounter the owner, Jean-Luc, a Cote d’Ivoire native full of charm who obviously enjoys pleasing customers. (I will admit, he charmed me from the start by complimenting my French pronunciation. Sure, I’ve had a lifetime of practice with “pain au chocolat,” but still). 
You’d be nuts not to order the coffee. It’s Peregrine – a local roaster that’s strong and just as good as local fave La Colombe. It brews strong but not too acidic – just how I like it. As for food, it’s a real dilemma. Despite my pronunciation, I don’t think the pain au chocolat is the best around, so stick with the plain croissant if you’re on the pastry path. But, I recommend branching out. The crepes are terrific – both sweet and savory (the ham, egg, and cheese crepe is an excellent weekend breakfast). The Brussels waffles are also good, although I prefer to chocolate them up as a treat rather than make it a breakfast option. But the unexpected star of the menu is the Croque Madame. It’s not overdone, the flavors are balanced perfectly, and it’s a mystery how it comes out of the little countertop kitchen just right.
